JournalNotes from the workbench
Short, practical reads on leather, stitching and looking after what you make or own.
Workshop noteWhy vegetable-tanned leather darkens
Handling, sunlight and skin oils slowly deepen the colour of vegetable-tanned leather. Here is why it happens and why craftspeople welcome it.
Vegetable-tanned leather is cured with plant tannins rather than chromium salts, which leaves the fibres open and receptive. Natural oils from your hands, a little sunlight and everyday air exposure all react with those tannins over time.
The result is a patina: a gradual shift from pale tan to a warmer, richer brown, usually strongest where the piece is touched most. No two items age alike.
To keep the change even, store pieces out of harsh direct light, and expect the first few weeks of use to bring the fastest colour change.
Workshop noteA first saddle stitch, step by step
Two needles, one waxed thread and evenly spaced holes. The saddle stitch is the backbone of hand-sewn leather goods.
Mark a stitching line with a groover or a pair of dividers, then punch evenly spaced holes with a stitching chisel. Even holes are the single biggest factor in neat stitching.
Thread a needle on each end of a length of waxed thread. Pass one needle through a hole, then pass the second needle through the same hole from the other side, and pull both snug.
Repeat along the line, always passing the same needle first. Finish by backstitching two or three holes and trimming the ends.
Workshop noteLooking after boots and belts
A little regular care goes a long way. Clean gently, condition sparingly and let leather rest between wears.
Wipe away dust and mud with a soft dry brush or cloth. For marks, use a barely damp cloth and let the leather dry naturally, away from radiators and direct heat.
Apply a thin coat of conditioner only when the surface starts to look dry. Too much product can soften leather and clog its pores.
If you can, rotate between two pairs of boots so each one has a day to dry out. Cedar shoe trees help hold shape and absorb moisture.
Workshop noteBurnishing an edge until it glows
A well-finished edge turns a cut piece of leather into a finished one. It only takes patience and a little water.
Start by sanding the cut edge smooth, working through finer grits. Bevel the sharp corners lightly so the edge has a gentle curve.
Dampen the edge with a touch of water or gum tragacanth, then rub briskly with a piece of canvas or a wooden slicker. Friction and heat compress the fibres.
Repeat dampening and rubbing until the edge looks glossy and feels firm. A thin coat of edge wax can finish the job.
Workshop noteReading a hide before you cut
Grain side, flesh side, shoulder and belly: knowing the parts of a hide helps you cut smarter and waste less.
The grain side is the smooth outer surface and the flesh side is the rougher underside. Most projects show the grain side.
The shoulder is dense and firm, ideal for straps and belts. The belly is looser and stretchier, better kept for linings or smaller pieces.
Leather thickness is often given in ounces, where one ounce is roughly 0.4 mm. Wallets usually call for 2 to 3 oz, belts for 8 to 10 oz.
Ready for a break?
When your hands need a rest, the games shelf is open to everyone.